正文 三十七 半路回家(第1页/共3页)
长江三峡的壮美，是坐在旅游船上，舱里铺着红地毯，小方桌上摆着麻将（扑克）、麻辣五香牛肉片、茅台酒、啤酒的人们欣赏的；长江三峡的激流险滩，是纤夫们合着汗水、泪水、血水闯过的。叶青枝的船队再也不能靠划桨前行了。“自三峡七百里中，两岸连山，略无阙处，重岩叠嶂，隐天蔽日，自非亭午夜分，不见曦月。”（郦道元《水经注》）江水鼓着万千个泡泡，翻滚着，漩转着，撞击着向下游涌去；船头击起尺多高的浪花，颠簸着，摇晃着，犟着要随水漂流；人们背着纤绳，蹬稳脚跟，躬着腰，呼着喊着，把船一步一步拉着向前，在船上的人一篙紧一篙，鼓足力气向前撑，小船、纤绳、人连成了一个整体，连成了一个不屈不挠的小小的生命，在惊涛骇浪中向前，再向前。叶青枝拼命拉着，发着号子，一百多人应着：
“船过三峡呀，
人心寒！哟嗬也，嗬哟嗬嗬，
最怕是崆岭呀，
鬼门关！
一声号子，
我一身汗！
一声号子，
我一身胆！
三声号子又一滩，
我的连手，哟嗬也，嗬哟嗬嗬
……”（《峡江号子》）
船过牛肝马肺峡，岩壁上有两块重叠下垂的褚黄色岩石，一块形似牛肝，一块形似马肺，它们其实都是地下水中的碳酸钙沉积形成的钟乳石。如今牛肝还完整，而马肺则在清光绪二十六年（1900）年被入侵的英国军舰轰掉了下半部，使马肺残缺不全。叶青枝她们不识牛肝马肺的真面目，只是喘着粗气，恨自己的鼻孔长小了，出的是烫人的气。陶小娟这个自称打工可以挣月薪2000元的女娃，背着纤绳，躬着腰，跟在叶青枝的身后，一步不离地吼着，拉着，高跟皮鞋的鞋跟早已蹬掉了，皮鞋也早已甩了，穿着袜子在石子路上一步一步蹬着，这是千百年来一代又一代的纤夫蹬出来的路，她手扶着岩壁，像壁虎一样，身子紧紧贴住岩壁，手脚并用，把汗水洒在路上，把力拼在纤绳上，为小船的前进向前蹬着，爬着……皮鞋不是纤夫们在这里穿的，胶鞋也不是纤夫们在这里穿的，它们都不是在三峡拉纤的鞋，人们拉了一天，不是掉了鞋后跟，就是脱了鞋面，有时候还滑脚，腰闪了不说，影响船的前进，搞得不好，连人都会掉进江中喂鱼！拉到天晚，船队在一处集镇歇夜，人们上街买了草鞋、厚袜子，穿上脚，试了试，走起路来像黄古丁鱼的叫声，踩到哪里是哪里，耐滑，轻快，好使劲，这才是纤夫们要穿的鞋！黑铁塔鼎武说：“要是那一天和陈五毛打架，穿上草鞋，决不会失脚！”钟三鸣说：“六湾里发火——再着。”“还再着，住了院的钱还欠着啊！”人们笑得前仰后合。夏雨晴说：“难怪广西兴安县的人们把一双没有穿上脚的新草鞋挂在神柜上方的，他们把草鞋视为神灵敬奉，为什么呢？现在才明白，草鞋是生命之鞋！试想长征时，红军如果是坐车或者是乘船，早就被蒋介石的部队打死光了；正是因为穿着草鞋爬高山，钻密林，才逃脱了几十万国民党部队的围追堵截，取得了长征的伟大胜利！啊，草鞋，我们
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